The process for making holds using wood
| No. | Step | Instructions | Photos |
| 1 | Select your wood | Select or cut a block of wood to make your hold from. The block should be roughly the size of the hold you are going to make and the grain should run parrallel to the wall when the finished hold is attached. If you are cutting the block from a plank the grain should run the length of the plank. See <materials and tools> for help selecting the right type of wood | Add some photos here |
| 2 | Make sure the back is flat | If the back (the side that is going to be attached to the wall) isn’t already flat cut and / or sand it to a flat surface | |
| 3 | Sketch the hold shape | Using a pencil roughly draw the outline of the hold shape that you are going to make on the block. This will help you with where to place the attachment hole(s) and where to make the cuts Add links to See example design and See design considerations pages | |
| 4 | Attachement Hole(s) | While the hole can be drilled at any time it is often easier to clamp the of wood and drill the hole(s) while the block of wood is rectangular. If you are hand drilling this makes it a lot easier to keey the bit perpendicular to the hold. If you are using a Cap Head screw with a washer: Use a forstner bit and create a ??? About 1cm deep. The diameter of the forstner bit should be slightly Drill out the bolt hole all the way through (11mm for an M10 bolt) Then use forstner bit to deepen the ??? To the required depth. When finished: The bolt head doesn’t interfere with the hold When you place your bolt and washer in the hole and check that it comes out perpendicular on the back of the block and that it pertrudes far enough to to fully go into the t-nut. e.g. roughly 20mm for 17mm ply with t-nuts) Depth between the back and the washer should be such that it’s strong enough – you might need . If you are using screws or a martini bolt: Drill the hole all the way through (11mm hole for an M10 Bolt) Countersink so that the head doesn’t protrude Check that it comes out perpendicular on the underside of the block and that it pertrudes far enough to to fully go into the t-nnut. | |
| 5 | Cut rough Shape of the Hold | Using your saw make cuts to get the block as close as you can to the shape of the hold. | |
| 6 | Bulk wood removal | Shape the hold by removing. A rasp works fine but angle grinder with a flap disk is a quick and efficient way to do this . Scoop as well as flatten This step creates lots of sawdust so make sure you are in a suitable area and wearing suitable clothes and protection. As it takes shape stop and “test” the hold with your hands, and think about the angles of wall which you plan to use the hold At the end of this step your block of wood is now looking pretty like a hold! | |
| 7 | Sanding | Sand the hold to the desired finish. Start with a course grit (40) and then move to a finer grit. 180 grit makes a nice finish. Consider leaving key contact areas of the hold a bit rougher, particularly if it’s a sloper A random orbital sander will do a good job. You will still likely need to hand sand any intricate parts or corner of the hold | |
| 8 | Set Screw Hole (if Required) | If the hold is likely to spin then add a set screw hole with a countersink drill bit or a normal drill bit and a countersink | |
| 9 | Finishing (Optional) | Unfinished timber holds work fine and retains some friction so this step is optional You can varnish or oil your holds to make then look great or you can use textured paint on some or all of the hold to give you a “dual tex” finish |